The Different Types Of Retinoid

Confused by the difference between retinol, retinoids and retinal? The world of vitamin A can seem overwhelming at first, so we’re here to help you get to grips with the different versions of this hero skincare ingredient.

Often touted as the ‘gold standard’ in skincare, retinol is one kind of retinoid – the umbrella term for vitamin A-derived ingredients. By speeding up cell turnover and helping to boost our skin’s collagen levels, the benefits of retinoids include a reduction in visible fine lines and breakouts, plus smoother and firmer skin.

The form of vitamin A that our skin uses is retinoic acid, and one thing separating the derivatives is how many conversion steps it takes to turn the retinoid into this skin-ready form. More conversion steps can mean a gentler retinoid, but that lower potency also means less of those benefits.

So, which is which? We asked Daniel Isaacs, Chief Product Officer and Director of Research at Medik8 , to break down the key different types of retinoid found in skincare to help you better understand them.

A guide to the different type of retinoid, explained by an expert

 

Retinol esters

“This gentle form of vitamin A is a good starting point for people dipping their toes into vitamin A,” says Isaacs. “They are very gentle, but the multiple conversion steps mean they offer the least visible benefit compared to other retinoids.” Retinol requires three conversion steps to become ‘skin ready’ – to retinol, retinal, then retinoic acid.

Retinol

Retinol is probably the retinoid you’ve heard the most about – and the one most commonly found on the skincare market – which requires two conversion steps. Isaacs describes it as “The classic form of vitamin A. It converts to retinaldehyde, then to retinoic acid to trigger cell renewal and collagen production.”

Retinaldehyde 

Retinal, or, to use its full name retinaldehyde, is the next step closer to retinoic acid and has become more popular in over-the-counter skincare products over the past 5–10 years. “It delivers results up to 11 times faster, similar to prescription-strength retinoic acid, and has antibacterial properties, making it ideal for blemish-prone skin,” says Isaacs.

Retinyl retinoate

This is a unique retinoid that combines two different forms of vitamin A: “A breakthrough hybrid of retinol and retinoic acid,” explains Isaacs. “It offers enhanced anti-aging benefits – eight times more collagen and wrinkle repair than retinol – with less irritation than retinoic acid. Uniquely, it's stable in sunlight, allowing for day and night use.”

Granactive retinoid

Granactive retinoid, or hydroxypinacolone retinoate, is unique because it’s an ester of retinoic acid – which essentially means it’s gentler the skin recognises it as retinoic acid. “This next-generation, direct-acting retinoid, with low irritation, is a great alternative for those who find retinol irritating but want stronger results than retinol esters.”

Tretinoin

Tretinoin is the active form of vitamin A, retinoic acid, meaning it is incredibly powerful: “The highest potent retinoid, this active drug is the final active form of vitamin A,” says Isaacs. Because of this, it’s not available to buy and is only available on prescription. It’s often used to help with the management of acne. As a Prescription-Only (Rx) medication, tretinoin requires a consultation with Skin Pharmacy’s healthcare professionals to ensure safe and effective use. Schedule a consultation , and after your appointment, you’ll gain access to our exclusive range of prescription skincare products.

Now that you’ve wised up on the main types of retinoid, here are some of the Skin Pharmacy team’s favourites to shop now.

 

Shop our favourite retinoid skincare products

 

iS Clinical Retinol + Emulsion 0.3  

Alongside a 0.3% concentration of retinol, iS Clinical’s formula contains antioxidants, copper tripeptide-1 and nourishing shea butter for a well-rounded formula that works to support and rejuvenate the skin.

Medik8 Crystal Retinal 3 Serum

Utilising retinal, a more potent retinoid, Medik8’s Crystal Retinal is my personal go-to. It’s available in various strengths to suit everyone from absolute beginners to seasoned retinoid users. 

Neostrata Retinol Repair Complex  

With 0.5% retinol for slightly more experienced retinol users, Neostrata’s potent formula targets the visible signs of ageing to support skin’s volume, reduce dark spots and smooth the look of fine lines and wrinkles. 

Alumier MD Retinol Eye Gel

If you’re looking to target the eye area, Alumier MD’s gel has been formulated specifically for this delicate area. Alongside retinol, there’s also a gentle cocktail of allantoin, sodium hyaluronate and niacinamide to hydrate and soothe – all while tackling wrinkles and fine lines around the eyes. 

Obagi Retinol 1.0

For those experienced retinol users who no longer need an entry-level concentrate, Obagi’s 1% formula contains microencapsulated retinol, meaning it’s designed to be released into the skin gradually – helping to negate some of the potential for irritation while it works to improve skin’s texture and tone.

 

Explore our full range of Retinol or to book a free consultation with a Skin Pharmacy expert email  hello@skinpharmacy.com  or by phone at 020 3070 3833  or 07522002050